Before I went to Noma, Noma got here to me.
René Redzepi’s pioneering restaurant in Copenhagen introduced Monday that 2024 would be the final 12 months it will likely be open for normal enterprise, because it transforms itself into a special type of enterprise, Noma 3.0. Booking a desk for the farewell meal at Noma 2.0 will likely be inconceivable, however that’s been the story for years. When I wrote about Noma in 2018, I balked at a reservation from an outdated colleague, two months after the restaurant had assumed its present dimension and site.
However, by that point, Noma had already lived in New York City for years.
It was in a single-chunk appetizers of reindeer lichen and puffed fish pores and skin, although they weren’t known as appetizers or amuses, both—all of a sudden they had been “snacks.”
Noma was right here within the wild sea buckthorn’s sign-orange berries that began popping up in cocktails, jams, sauces and cheese programs. It was within the bitter, coronary heart-formed leaves right here sisal and different vegetation that Mr. Redzepi and his cooks picked, plucked, and dug in quest of the constructing blocks of a strictly regional delicacies following the rules of the New Nordic Manifesto.